Winter Warmers

Two new patterns out at the moment:

Snowcloud Cardigan

A soft, warm cardigan to keep you toasty when the snow starts falling. Featuring chunky cuffs and wraparound front in double moss stitch for extra cosiness. Seamless construction and aran yarn make this a quick and satisfying knit. Available to purchase from Ravelry and Etsy.

Yarn: Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran 8 (10, 11, 13, 15, 16) skeins at 91m / 100 yds per skein
Needles: One 5mm/US8 100cm circular needle, four 5mm/US 8 dpns or one 16” 5mm/US 8 circular needle. 
Gauge: 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4” in stocking stitch

Dimensions: 
To fit bust 32” (34”, 36”, 38”, 40”, 42”)
Sleeve length: 14” (14½”, 15”, 16”, 16½”, 17”)
Cuff Circumference: 10” (11”, 12”, 13”, 14”, 15”)
Upper Arm Circumference: 11½” (13”, 14”, 15”, 16½”, 17½”)
Back Width: 16” (17”, 18”, 19”, 20”, 21”)
Length Armpit to Hem: 14½” (15½”, 16½”, 17½”, 18½”, 19½”)

Buachaille Scarf

A cosy winter classic. Knitted up in chunky Bluefaced Leicester yarn for the ultimate in warmth and comfort. This is an easy knit, but lace stitches and cables keep it interesting. This design uses “fake cable” stitches – they’re much easier than using a cable needle but practically indistinguishable! Full instructions for all stitches are included in the pattern. Pattern available on Ravelry and Etsy. 

Yarn: Rowan Purelife British Sheep Breeds Chunky (Bluefaced Leicester) 3 skeins = 330m in total.
Needles: 6.5 mm / US 10 ½ 
Gauge: 12 stitches = 4” in stocking stitch
Dimensions: 8” x 70”

Kimberley Mitts

Knitted these up as a quick Christmas present for my friend Kimberley. Ideal stocking filler knit, very fast and easy to make. The pattern uses fake cable stitches, much easier than using a cable needle but practically indistinguishable.

Yarn:  Rowan Pure Wool Aran

Needles:  4 5mm/US 8 dpns

Gauge: 17 stitches = 4” in stocking stitch.

Dimensions: 6” around, 6½” long (they fit an average ladies hand)

Extras: Three stitch markers, a needle and some scrap yarn. 

Notation: 

CO = cast on

k = knit

p = purl

p1fb = purl one stitch into the front of the next stitch, and one stitch into the back (one stitch increased).

p2tog = purl two stitches together

sl = slip with yarn held back

RT = right twist = knit two stitches together without slipping stitches off the left

needle, knit into first stitch again, then slip both stitches off left hand needle

Youtube video for right twist here.

LT = left twist = knit into the back of the second stitch on left hand needle without slipping it

off the needle. Knit into the first stitch on the needle then slip both stitches off the needle.

Youtube video for left twist here.

Pattern:

Kim Cable Pattern Chart:

Kim Cable Pattern written instructions:

Row 1: p2 k2 p2 k1 p2 k3 p2 k1 p2 k2

Row 2: p2 RT p2 sl1 p2 RT k1 p2 sl1 p2 RT

Row 3: as Row 1

Row 4: p2 RT p2 sl1 p2 k1 LT p2 sl1 p2 RT

Fisherman’s Rib Pattern:

Row 1: *p2 k1* to end of row

Row 2: *p2 sl1* to end of row

Directions: 

Note: Yarn should be held to the back of your knitting for every slipped stitch.

Left Mitt:

CO 33 stitches over 3 dpns and join in the round. Work in k2 p1 rib for 6 rows. Next row: k2, p1fb *k2 p1* to end of row.

Now work first row of Kim Cable Pattern, place a marker, and work in fisherman’s rib to the end of the row.

Continue working Kim Cable Pattern on the first 19 stitches, and Fisherman’s rib pattern on the remaining 15 stitches. Work 2 repeats of Kim Cable Pattern, then Row 1 once more (i.e. work 9 rows).

Thumb Gusset: p1fb twice, placing a stitch marker between the stitch you purl into the front and the stitch you purl into the back both times. You should have a row starting purl, marker, purl, purl, marker, purl. Now work row 2 of Kim Cable pattern, starting on the third stitch (i.e. starting with the first RT), then work in Fisherman’s Rib to the end of the row. You will continue working as before, but increasing stitches between the two new markers as follows:

Row 1: p1; purl stitches between markers; work in Kim Cable pattern starting on the second stitch (i.e. p1 at the start of the row rather than p2) to next marker; work in Fisherman’s Rib to end of row.

Row 2: p1; slip marker, p1fb, purl to one stitch before next marker, p1fb, slip marker; work in Kim Cable pattern starting on the second stitch to next marker; work in Fisherman’s Rib to end of row.

Repeat these two rows until you have 10 purl stitches between the thumb gusset markers, then work the first row once more. You should just have finished Row 3 of Kim Cable Pattern.

Thread a needle with about 6” of scrap yarn. Next row: p1; slip the 10 stitches between the markers onto the scrap yarn and tie it in a loop to secure the stitches; now continue working Row 4 of Kim Cable Pattern, starting on the second stitch (i.e. p1, RT,…) until marker, work in Fisherman’s rib to the end of the row.

Now continue working Kim Cable Pattern on the first 19 stitches, and Fisherman’s rib pattern on the remaining 15 stitches. Keep going until the mitt measures about 6” from CO edge, ending with Row 1 or Row 3 of Kim Cable Pattern.

Next row: k2, p2 tog, *k2 p1* to end of row. Continue working in k2 p1 rib for 3 more rows. Bind off all stitches.

Thumb: Pick up the 10 thumb stitches on scrap yarn. Purl all stitches and join in the round. (Tip: On the first round, I like to work a p1fb on the last stitch in the round, slip this extra stitch onto the beginning of the first needle, and purl it together with the first stitch on the next round.) Purl every stitch for 4 rows more. Now work k1 p1 rib for 2 rounds. Bind off all stitches.

Right Mitt:

Work as for Left Mitt up to Thumb Gusset, you should just have finished Row 1 of Kim Cable Pattern.

Next Row: work Row 2 of Kim Cable Pattern; slip marker, p1fb twice, placing a stitch marker between the stitch you purl into the front and the stitch you purl into the back both times. After the first marker you should have: purl, marker, purl, purl, marker, purl.  Now continue in Fisherman’s rib pattern, starting on the third stitch (i.e. sl1, *p2 sl1* to end of row).

You will continue working as before, but increasing stitches between the two new markers as follows:

Row 1: Work in Kim Cable pattern up to the first marker; p1, purl stitches between thumb gusset markers, p1, k1; work in Fisherman’s Rib to end of row.

Row 2: Work in Kim Cable pattern up to the first marker; p1, slip marker, p1fb, purl to stitch before next marker, p1fb, slip marker, p1, sl1; work in Fisherman’s Rib to end of row.

Repeat these two rows until you have 10 purl stitches between the thumb gusset markers, then work the first row once more. You should just have finished Row 3 of Kim Cable Pattern.

Thread a needle with about 6” of scrap yarn. Next row: work Row 4 of Kim Cable Pattern; p1, slip stitches between thumb gusset markers onto scrap yarn, p1, sl1; work in Fisherman’s rib to the end of the row.

Now continue working Kim Cable Pattern on the first 19 stitches, and Fisherman’s rib pattern on the remaining 15 stitches. Keep going until the mitt measures about 6” from CO edge, ending with Row 1 or Row 3 of Kim Cable Pattern.

Next row: k2, p2 tog, *k2 p1* to end of row. Continue working in k2 p1 rib for 3 more rows. Bind off all stitches.

Knit the thumb as in left mitt.

Weave in any loose ends and you’re done!

Twisted Reversible Mitts

I knitted this up to match my Twisted Reversible Hat. The main difference is that the outside on this version matches the inside of the hat (if that makes sense). I reckoned I preferred the inside of the hat after all…

Yarn: Rowan Tapestry, one ball (=120m)

Needles: Four 4mm/US 6 dpns

Gauge:  22 stitches =4'' with 4mm/US6 needles in stocking stitch.

Dimensions:  To fit an average ladies’ hand.

Extras: Two stitch markers, a needle and some scrap yarn.

Notation: 

CO = cast on

k = knit

p = purl

k1fb = knit once into the front of the next stitch and once into the back (one stitch increased).

k2tog = knit two stitches together.

Pattern:

Spiral Pattern:

Just keep working *k2 p2*!! The number of stitches in a row isn't divisible by four, so you won't end every row with "p2", but just keep going and you'll get the lovely textured spiral pattern shown.

Mitt Directions (make 2)

CO 40 stitches over 3 dpns and join in the round. Work in k2 p2 rib for 8 rows. Next row, k1fb (so there are now 41 stitches in the row) p2, now work in Spiral Pattern (i.e. just keep working *k2 p2*) until the mitt measures 2½” from cast on edge, ending on a row that finishes p2.

Thumb Gusset: At the start of this row, you should be about to work two knit stitches; instead work 2 k1fb stitches, placing markers between the stitch you knit into the front and the stitch you knit into the back. You should have one knit stitch, then a marker, then two knit stitches, then a marker, then a knit stitch. Finish the row as usual, working p2 k2 p2 etc. Now work increases as follows:

Row 1. Knit the stitches between the stitch markers, and continue in Spiral Pattern for all the other stitches (after the markers, just carry on where you left off the Spiral Pattern).

Row 2. K1fb for the stitch after the first marker and the stitch before the second marker. Knit all other stitches between the markers, and continue in Spiral Pattern for all the stitches outside the markers. Two stitches increased.

Repeat the two increase rows until you have 14 stitches between the markers, the work Row 1 once more.

Thread about 6” of scrap yarn onto a needle. When you get to the first marker on the next round, slip all the stitches between the markers onto the needle and onto the scrap yarn. Tie the yarn in a loop so the stitches are secured.

Now continue working in Spiral Pattern until your mitt measures 5” from the cast on edge. Next row: k2tog, k1, p2, *k2 p2* to end of row. Continue working in k2 p2 rib for 3 more rows. Bind off all stitches.

Thumb: Pick up the 14 thumb stitches and remove the scrap yarn. Knit all stitches and join in the round. (Tip: On the first round, I like to work a k1fb on the last stitch in the round, slip this extra stitch onto the beginning of the first needle, and knit it together with the first stitch on the next round.) Knit every stitch for 5 rows more. Now work k1 p1 rib for 2 rounds. Bind off all stitches.

Weave in all the loose ends and you’re done!

Asterisk Hat

A slouchy, easy-to-knit hat in two sizes. Decreases at the top form an asterisk shape. The hat pictured is in the larger size.

Yarn:  Patons UK Wool Blend DK, 1 skein = 251m (you won’t use it all!)

Needles: 4 4mm dpns or 4mm 16” circular needle and 4 4mm dpns.

Gauge:  22sts and 30 rows = 4”

Dimensions: small = 18” around, 8” high, large = 20” around, 9” high.

Extras 3 stitch markers.

Notation: 

CO = cast on

k = knit

p = purl

sl = slip

k2tog = knit 2 stitches together

ssk= slip 2 stitches knitwise then knit them together with the lefthand needle

psso = pass slipped stitch over

pm = place marker

Add caption

Double Moss Stitch Pattern:

Row 1: *k1 p1* to end of row.

Row 2: *k1 p1* to end of row.

Row 3: *p1 k1* to end of row.

Row 4: *p1 k1* to end of row.

Directions: 

Note: The directions for this pattern require you to use 4 (not 5!) dpns. The decreases at the top are worked in 6 segments, 2 on each dpn.

Cast on 102 (114) stitches, 34 (38) on each of your 3 dpns (if you’re using them).  Join in the round and place a marker for the beginning of the row if you’re using a circular needle.

Work in k2 p1 rib for 10 rows (or around 1½”). Now work in Double Moss Stitch until hat measures 6” (7”), ending on Row 3 of the Double Moss Stitch Pattern. Change to 4 dpns if you were using a circular needle, ensuring you have 34 (36) stitches on each of your 3 working needles.

Work set-up row: *p1, (k1 p1) 8 (9) times, pm, k1 (p1 k1) 8 (9) times, (you should be at the end of a needle)* to end of row.  You basically work row 4 of the Double Moss Stitch Pattern but place a marker in the middle of each dpn, i.e. after 17 (19) stitches. This divides your stitches into 6 segments for the decreases.

Now decrease as follows:

Row 1: (ssk k1 *p1 k1* to two stitches before marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk p1 *k1 p1* to two stitches before end of dpn, k2tog ) three times, 12 stitches decreased.

Row 2: (k2 *p1 k1* to one stitch before marker, k1, slip marker, k1 p1 *k1 p1* to one stitch before end of dpn, k1) three times.

Repeat these two rows 6 (7) more times, you should have 18 stitches left.

Final Row: *sl1 k1 psso* to end of row. Cut the yarn leaving a 10'' tail. Thread this through the remaining stitches and pull tight. Sew over the hole a couple of times and weave in any loose ends. 

Rainclouds and Forest Walks

Here in Scotland, Summer has been over for a while now (since June if you're interested), so I'm thinking it's high time to break out the autumnal knitting patterns. And here they are! Both are knitted up in Shilasdair Luxury DK, which is an absolutely gorgeous yarn naturally dyed on the Isle of Skye. It's fantastic value too, the skeins are giant!

First up is the Raincloud Cardigan. I really love this one, it has become my number one wardrobe staple. I am glued to it. It's cosy, but the single fastening and three-quarter length sleeves mean you don't overheat. It's available to purchase for $3 from Ravelry and my Etsy shop. Sizing details can be found there too.

Next there's my Forest Walk scarf. I knitted this one up as a birthday present for a friend. It's a quick knit but looks very impressive. It uses just over one skein of the Shilasdair luxury DK, but you could squeeze one out of a single skein. My version is around 6 feet long so it'd be fine to make it a bit shorter. I made both the cardigan (smallest size) and the scarf from 3 skeins. Again, it's available to purchase from Ravelry and my Etsy shop.