Dochart Scarf

This is a bit of shameless advertising, but I've got a pattern up for sale on etsy and ravelry that's really lovely! It's a really beautiful scarf, with a braided pattern on one side and twists on the other. It knits up very quickly and would make a really nice present, the yarn is so soft and fuzzy and comes in lovely colours. It uses left twists and right twists for a cabled effect, but they're much easier than using a cable needle.

Available for download for a very reasonable $2 at ravelry (you need to be a ravlery member) or etsy. 

Hillhead Mittens

I knitted these up as a Christmas present for my brother. He's just got a job working outdoors so I thought he could do with some more insulation! They fit an average sized man's hand, but they're easy to adapt to make smaller or larger. 

Yarn : Rowan pure wool dk, 2 balls = 248 m (hardly used any of second ball though). Scraps of rowan alpaca cotton for snowflake design.

Materials: Set of 4 4mm / US 6  double pointed needles, embroidery needle for swiss darning, two stitch marker, stitch holder (or scrap of yarn).

Gauge: 22 stitches = 10cm in stocking stitch.
         
Size: One size, fits average man's hand.

Notation: 

k = knit
p = purl
sl = slip
k1bf = knit into the back of a stitch then the front, slide stitch off left hand needle.
k1bfb = knit into the back of a stitch, then the front, then the back again. Slide off left hand needle.

CO = cast on
pm = place marker
ssk = slip two knitwise onto right hand needle, then knit them together
k2tog = knit two stitches together

mc = main colour = rowan pure wool dk
cc = contrast colour = rowan alpaca cotton

Directions:


Fisherman's Rib in the round:
Row 1:  *k1 p2* to end of row
Row 2: *sl1 p2* to end of row

Snowflake Chart:

Mittens (make two):
CO 45 stitches across 3 dpns in mc (15 stitches per needle) and join in the round. Work in fisherman's rib for 16 rows. Now work 6 rows in stocking stitch (i.e. knit every stitch). Now  k22 ,pm, kfbf, pm, k22.
Next row: knit
Next +1 row: knit to marker, slip marker, kfb, knit to one stitch before next marker, kfb, slip marker, knit to end of row.

Repeat these last two rows until you have 15 stitches between your markers. Next row, knit to marker, remover marker, place the next 15 stitches on a holder, remove second marker, kfb into next stitch, knit to end of row. Continue in stocking stitch until mitten measures 7'' from cuff or until it's approx 1'' shorter than the hand it's intended for. Next row: k19 ssk k2 k2tog k17 ssk k1.

Now divide the stitches so there are 21 on the first needle, 11 on the second needle and 10 on the third. Repeat the following two rows until 12 stitches remain.
Row 1: knit
Row 2: Needle 1:  k1 k2tog knit to last three stitches on needle, ssk k1. Needle 2: k1 k2tog, knit to end of needle. Needle 3: knit to last three stitches, ssk k1.

When 12 stitches remain, slip the stitches from needle 2 onto needle 3 and bind off using kitchener stitch.

Put the 15 thumb stitches back on the dpns (5 stitches on each). Work in stocking stitch until thumb measures 2 1/2 inches, or 1/2'' shorter than required.
Next row: *k3 k2tog* to end
Next +1 row: *k2 k2tog* to end
Next+2 row: *k1 k2tog* to end.
Cut yarn leaving a 6'' tail. Thread remaining stitches onto the yarn, pull tight and secure inside the mitten.


By swiss darning, (see tutorial) embroider the snowflake design using cc onto the front of each mitten. Weave in loose ends.

Ingram Scarf

Please note: this pattern is now available to download as a pdf from Craftsy for $2. It will still be freely available on this blog, but I thought people might want the opportunity to download a pdf version. 

Free mens' scarf knitting pattern - a classic scarf worked lengthwise. Knits up to be very dense so should keep you nice and cosy!

Yarn : Cygnet Truly Wool Rich 4ply , held double. 4 balls = 820 m. 

Needles :5mm / US 8  60cm circular needle

Gauge: 28 stitches = 10cm with yarn held singly, with 3.25mm/US 3 needles.
               15 stitches = 10cm with yarn held double, with 5mm/US 8 needles, in stocking stitch.

Size: One size, 15cm x 200cm

Notation: 

k = knit
p = purl

CO = cast on

Directions:

With yarn held double C0 300 stitches

Row 1: knit

Row 2: knit

Row 3: purl

Row 4: purl

Repeat the above four rows 12 times, or until scarf measures 15cm = 6'' across. Bind off and weave in loose ends.

Supercosy Baby Hat

 Please note: this pattern is now available to download as a pdf from Craftsy for $2. It will still be freely available on this blog, but I thought people might want the opportunity to download a pdf version.

Cute cabled baby beanie to keep tiny heads warm this winter!

Yarn : Garnstudio DROPS Nepal. Less than one 50g ball (= 75m). 

Needles : Four 5mm/US 8 dpns

Gauge: 17 stitches = 4'' in stocking stitch.

Size: Newborn - 1 year (it's very stretchy!). 10'' circumference, 5'' high.

Notation: 

k = knit
p = purl

CO = cast on

k2tog = knit two stitches together
p2tog = purl two stitches together

sl = slip

wyib = with yarn held to back of work

RT = right twist = k2tog without slipping stitches off the left

needle, knit into first stitch again, then slip both stitches off left hand needle

Directions

Cable Pattern:

Row 1: *p2, k2, p2, k1* to end

Row 2: *p2, k2, p2, sl1 wyib* to end

Row 3: *p2, RT, p2, k1* to end

Row 4: *p2, k2, p2, sl1 wyib* to end

CO 49 stitches over three dpns. Join in the round and work in Cable Pattern until hat measures 4.5'' ending with row 4 of pattern.  Now decrease as follows:

Row 1:*p2tog, k2, p2, k1* to end

Row 2: *p1, k2, p2, sl1 wyib* to end

Row 3: * p1, RT, p2tog, k1* to end

Row 4: *p1, k2, p1, sl1 wyib* to end

Row 5: *k2tog, k1, p1, k1* to end

Row 6: *k2, p1, sl1 wyib* to end

Row 7: *RT, k2tog* to end

Row 8: *k2, sl1 wyib* to end

Row 9: knit

Row 10: *k2tog* to end

Cut the yarn leaving a 6'' tail. thread remaining stitches onto the tail, pull tight and secure inside the hat. Weave in ends and top with a pompom if desired!

Pirouette Hat

Please note: this pattern is now available to download as a pdf from Craftsy for $2. It will still be freely available on this blog, but I thought people might want the opportunity to download a pdf version.

I'm making this as a Christmas present for a french teacher friend using a bit of leftover malabrigo. It's such a nice yarn and very cosy! I've used a lace pattern that has five stitch repeats, but one extra stitch in the round which gives the twirl effect. 

Yarn Less than one ball Malabrigo Worsted ( = less than 192 m).

Needles 4.5mm/ US 7 dpns

Gauge 18st = 10cm in stocking stitch with 5mm/US 8 needles

Dimensions 19'' circumference, 9'' high. 

Notation 

k = knit
p = purl

CO = cast on

k2tog = knit two stitches together

yo = bring the yarn to the front of your knitting

k1fb = knit into the front, then the back, of the next stitch
dpn = double pointed needle

Directions

CO 80 stitches, 30 on first needle, 25 on second, 25 on third. Work in k2 p2 rib for 8 rounds. Now k1fb, k2, k2tog, yo *k3, k2tog, yo* until your hat measures 7''. You should end up working a k2tog at the end of each dpn (and working the next yo at the start of the following dpn), if this isn't the case shift the stitches around so it is! For the last five stitches on the last dpn before you start decreasing, only work k3 k2tog, don't do a yo on the next needle. Now work decreases as follows:

Row 1: *k3 k2tog yo k3 k2tog* to end of row (i.e. repeat the part in **'s 8 times)

Row 2: *yo k2 k2tog yo k3 k2tog* to end of row

Row 3: *k2 k2tog yo k3 k2tog* to end of row

Row 4: *yo k1 k2 tog yo k3 k2 tog* to end of row

Row 5: *k1 k2tog yo k3 k2tog* to end of row

Row 6: *yo k2tog yo k3 k2tog* to end of row

Row 7: *k2tog yo k3 k2tog* to end of row

Row 8: *k4 k2tog yo* to end of row

Row 9: k3 k2 tog *k4 k2tog* to end of row

Row 10: *k3 k2tog yo* to end of row

Row 11: k2 k2tog *k3 k2tog* to end of row

Row 12: *k2 k2tog yo* to end of row

Row 13: k1 k2tog *k2 k2tog* to end of row

Row 14: *k1 k2tog yo* to end of row

Row 15: k2tog *k1 k2tog* fto end of row

Row 16:*k2tog* to end of row

Note that "to end of row" means work three dpns, rather than 81 stitches, this ensures the pattern "twists" nicely!

8 stitches remain, cut yarn leaving a 6'' tail, thread through remaining stitches, pull tight and secure inside the hat. Weave in loose ends.

Dunlochay Cushion Cover

 So, those who know me will be well aware that I'm borderline obsessed with buttons. This pattern's for a cute but simple cushion cover decorated with vintage buttons and bright embroidery thread.

Yarn 4 balls (you won't need all this) Rauma Finullgarn, =700m (you will probably only need around 500m though).

Other Materials Two 2cm buttons, plus extra to decorate if desired, embroidery thread, one 40cmx40cm cushion.

Needles One pair 7mm/ US 8 needles.

Gauge Held singly, 26 stitches = 10cm with 3mm/ US 2 1/2. Held double, 12 stitches = 10cm with 7mm needles.

Dimensions 45 cm across (after light felting)

Notation 

k = knit

CO = cast on

k2tog = knit two stitches together

k2tog tbl = knit two stitches together through the back of the loops

yo = bring the yarn to the front of your knitting.

garter stitch = knit every row

Directions

With yarn held double, CO 45 stitches. Work in garter stitch until your knitting is 80 cm long. 

For 3 rows:

k1 k2tog tbl, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog k1.

 6 stitches decreased, 39 stitches remaining.

Next row:

k1 k2tog tbl k6 yo k2tog k17 yo k2tog tbl k6 k2tog k1

Next 4 rows:

k1 k2tog tbl, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog k1.

Bind of remaining 29 stitches.

Fold the cast on edge up to the start of the decreases. Sew up along the sides. Felt very lightly and block stretched so cushion cover fits a 40cmx40cm cushion. The two yo's form buttonholes, sew the two 2cm buttons onto the cushion cover with embroidery thread to meet the holes. Sew the other buttons on with embroidery thread to decorate.

Figure 8 Wristwarmers

Please note: this pattern is now available to download as a pdf from Craftsy for $2. It will still be freely available on this blog, but I thought people might want the opportunity to download a pdf version.

Supercute ladies mitts in an amazingly lovely yarn!

 

Yarn : K1 Yarns Selkie, 30% Cashmere, 70% Superwash Merino. Less than one 50g ball (= 217m). 

Needles : One pair 3 3/4 mm (US 5) and two cable needles.

Gauge: 26 stitches = 10cm in stocking stitch.

Size: One size fits all ladies!

Notation: 

k = knit
p = purl

CO = cast on

k2tog = knit two stitches together

k2tog tbl knit two stitches together through the back of the loops

k1fb = knit into the front of the next stitch without slipping it off the left needle, then knit into the back

sl = slip

wyif = with yarn in front

RT = right twist = k2tog without slipping stitches off the left

needle, knit into first stitch again, then slip both stitches off left hand needle

CN = cable needle

X5 = slip first stitch onto CN and hold at the front of your knitting, the slip the next three stitches onto a second CN and hold at the back. Knit the next stitch, then the three from the second CN, then knit the stitch from the first CN.

Directions

Fisherman's Rib

Row 1: p1 *k1 p1* to end

Row 2: k1 * sl 1 wyif k1* to end

Cable Pattern:

Row 1: p2 k2 sl1 k2 p1 k1 p1 k1 p1 k2 sl1 k2 p2

Row 2: RT p2 k1 p2 k2 p1 k2 p2 k1 p2 RT

Row 3: as row 1

Row 4:  k2 p2 k1 p2 k2 p1 k2 p2 k1 p2 k2

Row 5: as row 1

Row 6: : RT p2 k1 p2 X5 p2 k1 p2 RT

Row 7: as row 1

Row 8: as row 4

Left Mitt

CO 37. Work Fisherman's Rib pattern for 11 rows.

Next row ( = wrong side) : k2 sl1 wyif k1fb *sl 1 wyif k2* four times, work 1st row of cable pattern, k2

Now work as follows:
Right side rows:  p2, work next row of cable pattern *p2 k1* five times, p2
Wrong side rows:  k2 *sl1 wyif k2* five times, work next row of cable pattern, k2

On row 5 of the second repetition of the cable pattern and row 4 of the third repetition of the cable pattern k1fb instead of k1 on the first and last stitches of the row. After this there should be 42 stitches. Work the extra stitches in reverse stocking stitch (i.e. knit on wrong side, purl on right side).


Repeat the cable pattern five times, then work rows 1 to 7 once more.


Now work in Fisherman's Rib for 9 rows, ending on a right side row. Bind off on wrong side.

Right Mitt

CO 37. Work Fisherman's Rib pattern for 11 rows.

Next row ( = wrong side) :   k2, work 1st row of cable pattern, *k2 sl1 wyif * four times, k1fb sl 1 wyif k2

Now work as follows:
Right side rows:  p2, *k1 p2* five times, work next row of cable pattern,  p2
Wrong side rows: k2 , work next row of cable pattern, *k2 sl1 wyif * five times, k2

On row 5 of the second repetition of the cable pattern and row 4 of the third repetition of the cable pattern k1fb instead of k1 on the first and last stitches of the row. After this there should be 42 stitches. Work the extra stitches in reverse stocking stitch (i.e. knit on wrong side, purl on right side.)


Repeat the cable pattern five times, then work rows 1 to 6 once more. Then work row 7, but with a k1fb instead of the first knit stitch.


Now work in Fisherman's Rib for 9 rows, ending on a right side row. Bind off on wrong side.

Thumbs (Make Two!)

CO 14 .
Row 1: p2 *k1 p2* to end
Row 2: k2 *sl1 wyif k2* to end
repeat these two rows until thumb measures 4cm (or longer if you have long thumbs, mine are a little stubby...)

Continue working in this pattern, but decrease two stitches on every wrong side row by working k2tog tbl at the start, and k2tog at the end of each wrong side row. Also ensure the edge stitch is always worked in reverse stocking stitch (i.e. purl the first and last stitches of the row even if the pattern says knit). Keep going until you have two stitches left, then bind off and weave in loose ends.

Sew up along the straight 4cm of the thumbs, then sew the slanted decrease edge of the thumb onto the mitts as you sew the mitts' side seams. See diagram:

 

 Weave in loose ends and you're finished!

Klein Scarf

Please note: this pattern is now available to download as a pdf from Craftsy for $2. It will still be freely available on this blog, but I thought people might want the opportunity to download a pdf version.

Here's another geeky one.This pattern is made up algorithmically, it's a repeating pattern of 4 stitches x 4 stitches with knits and purls randomly assigned. I really like the way the pattern turned out, makes a good manly scarf. If you like it please check out my random tea cosy design too!

Yarn 3 balls (=372 m = 150 g) Rowan Pure Wool dk.

Needles One pair 4.5 mm/ US 7 needles.

Gauge 22st = 10cm in stocking stitch with 4mm/US 6 needles

Dimensions 5'' x 80''

Notation 

k = knit
p = purl

CO = cast on

Directions

Random Pattern
Row 1: *p2, k2* to end of row
Row 2: p1, * k1, p3* until last 3 stitches, k1 p2
Row 3: k1, *p2, k2* to last 3 stitches, p2 k1
Row 4:*k1, p1* to end of row

CO 32 stitches. Work in pattern until scarf measures 80'' or desired length, bind off.

Random Stitch Tea Cosy

This is a small tea cosy I knitted up for my parents. It's about 25cm across but very stretchy, so it should fit any smallish teapot. The wool is from The Woolshed on Orkney, it's a very tweedy and rustic worsted weight . Being a bit of a maths obsessive, I designed the pattern algorithmically: it's a repeating pattern of four stitches across by four high, I tossed a coin to see whether to knit or purl each of the sixteen stitches. The pattern ended up being fairly close to 2x2 rib, but with a few knits and purls randomly mixed up, I'm pretty happy with the way this turned out...

Yarn Less than one ball (=50 g , about 100m) The Woolshed Worsted Weight North Ronaldsay Wool

Needles One pair 5mm/ US 8 needles.

Gauge 15 stitches x 20 rows = 10 cm x10 cm in stocking stitch.

Dimensions 25 cm across

Notation 

k = knit
p = purl
CO = cast on
k2tog = knit two stitches together
k2tog tbl = knit two stitches together through the back of the loops
p2tog = purl two stitches together
p2tog tbl = purl two stitches together through the back of the loops 


Directions

Rib Pattern:
Row 1:  *P3 K1* repeat to end.
Row 2: K2 *P1 K3* to last 2 stitches, P1 K1.
Row 3: *K1 P1* to end.
Row 4:  P2 *K1 P3* to last 2 stitches, K1 P1.


Make two sides, each one as follows:


CO 38 stitches.


Note:  The first and last stitches will always be in stocking stitch (knit on right side, purl on wrong side).


Work in rib pattern for 24 rows (= 6 repeats) always working the first and last stiches in stocking stitch.
i.e.
Row 1: k1, work in rib pattern to last stitch, k1
Row 2: p1, work in rib pattern to last stitch, p1
Row 3: k1, work in rib pattern to last stitch, k1
Row 4: p1, work in rib pattern to last stitch, p1


Repeat these four rows 6 times.


Now it gets a little interesting; decrease in pattern as follows:

Decrease row 1: k1 k2tog p1k1  *p3k1*  to last 5 stitches, p2  k2tog tbl k1


Decrease row 2: p2 *k1p1* to end of row

Decrease row 3:k1  k2tog  *k3 p1* to last 5 stitches,  k2 k2tog tbl  k1

Decrease row 4: p1  k1 * p3 k1*  to last 4 stitches,   p4

Decrease row 5: k1  k2tog   *p3k1*  to last 3 stitches, k2 tog tbl k1

Decrease row 6: p2   *k1p1*   to end of row.

Decrease row 7:k1  k2tog   k1 p1  *k3 p1* to last 3 stitches, k2tog tbl k1

Decrease row 8:  * p3 k1* to last 2 stitches, p2

Decrease row 9:k1  k2tog p1 k1  *p3k1*   to last 5  stitches, p2  k2tog tbl k1

Decrease row 10: p2  *k1p1*  to end of row

Decrease row 11:k1 k2tog    *k3 p1* to last 5 stitches, k2 k2tog tbl   k1

Decrease row 12: p1  k1  * p3 k1*   to last 4 stitches,  p4

Decrease row 13:k1   k2tog  *p3k1*  to last 3  stitches, k2tog tbl k1

Decrease row 14: p1   p2tog  p1    *k1p1*    to last 4 stitches, k1  p2tog tbl   p1

Decrease row 15: k1 k2tog  p1 *k3 p1*  to last 6 stitches, k3 k2 tog tbl    k1


Decrease row 16: p1  p2tog   * p3 k1*  to last 5 stitches, p2 p2tog tbl    p1

Decrease row 17:k1 k2tog  *p3k1*   to last 3 stitches, k2tog tbl    k1

Decrease row 18: p1  p2tog   p1  *k1p1*  to last 4 stitches,   k1 p2tog tbl    p1

Decrease row 19:k1  k2tog  p1  *k3 p1* to last 6 stitches, k3 k2tog tbl      k1

Decrease row 20: p1 p2tog  * p3 k1*   to last 5 stitches, p2  p2tog tbl   p1

Bind off 10 remaining stitches. 


Sew both sides together, and you're done!