Courie In

Please not that Courie In is no longer available as a free pattern. However, it is available to purchase in an improved form with additional sizes and instructions for shorter versions and a version with three-quarter length sleeves. 

"Courie in" is a Scottish phrase meaning to "snuggle up" - and it's the perfect name for this oversized, supremely warm, wrap front cardigan. This is a real winter warmer, ideal for nestling into with a mug of cocoa on a cold day. And it's so quick to knit! This cardigan has a slightly unusual construction. Sleeves are knitted first from cuff to centre back, then both sleeves are joined with a three needle bind off. Stitches are picked up at the bottom edge from armpit to armpit and worked down to the hem to form the back. Then stitches are picked up round the front to form the garter stitch wrap front.

Here are the details:

Yarn: Cloudborn Fibers Superwash Merino Bulky in Heather Grey. 6 (7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 15) skeins = 654 (763, 981, 1090, 1308, 1526, 1635) yards

Dimensions 
To fit bust: 30-32 (34-36, 38-40, 42-44, 46-48, 50-52, 54-56)” Across back: 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27)” 
Sleeve length: 15 (16, 17, 17.5, 18.5, 18.5, 19.5)” 
Upper arm circumference: 12.5 (13, 14, 14.5, 16, 17, 17.5)” 
Length armpit to hem: 14.5 (15.5, 16.5, 17.5, 18.5, 19.5, 20.5)”

Needles: 100cm/40” 8mm/US11 circular needle, 8mm/US11 dpns if you wish to avoid using “magic loop”.

Gauge: 10sts x 17 rows = 4” in Double Moss Stitch after blocking. Note that the weight of the cardigan whilst damp will cause it to stretch out more than a small swatch will.

Extras: Crochet hook for weaving in loose ends, stitch markers.

It's available to download on Ravelry and Craftsy. 

Lomond Hat

A cute hat that'll keep your ears warm. Knits up quickly in cosy chunky yarn.

Yarn: Quince and Co. Puffin, one skein = 112 yards/102 metres

Needles: One 6.5mm/US 10½ 100cm/40” circular needle, plus four 6.5mm/US 10½ double pointed needles if not using magic loop method.

Gauge: 12 stitches = 4” in stocking stitch using 6.5mm/US 10½ needles.

Dimensions: To fit an average ladies head (about 22” around).

Notation:

k = knit

p = purl

k2tog = knit next two stitches together

w&t = wrap and turn.

dc = double crochet (please note that in the USA this is called single crochet!)

Techniques

Wrap and Turn

On the right side:

Bring yarn to the front, slip next stitch (this is the “wrapped stitch”) onto right hand needle, bring yarn to the back, slip wrapped stitch back onto left hand needle, turn your work.

On the wrong side:

Bring yarn to the back, slip next stitch (this is the “wrapped stitch”) onto right hand needle, bring yarn to the front, slip wrapped stitch back onto left hand needle, turn your work.

See youtube video here.

To work a wrapped stitch together with its wrap:

When you get to the wrapped stitch, lift the wrap (the bit of yarn wrapping round the wrapped stitch) onto the end of the left hand needle and knit/purl this together with the wrapped stitch.

Youtube video here.

Stitch Patterns

Double Moss Stitch:

Row 1: *k1 p1* to end of row.

Row 2: *k1 p1* to end of row.

Row 3: *p1 k1* to end of row.

Row 4: *p1 k1* to end of row.

Stockinette Stitch in the round:

Knit every round.

Directions:

Moss Stitch Band

Cast on 56 stitches, do not join in the round. Work in Double Moss Stitch for 3”. Either join in the round and place marker for beginning of round working using magic loop method, or transfer to four double pointed needles for working in the round.

Short Row Shaping

You should have 56 stitches joined in the round. Place four more markers (we'll call them M1, M2, M3 and M4) as follows:

Place M1 after stitch 17, M2 after stitch 21, M3 after stitch 35 and M4 after stitch 39. Knit to one stitch before M4, w&t. Purl to one stitch before M1, w&t. Knit to one stitch before M3, w&t. Purl to one stitch before M2, w&t.

Crown

Work in stockinette stitch in the round. In the first round after the short row shaping, work wraps together with wrapped stitches. You can remove M1, M2, M3 and M4 after you've done this. Continue working in stockinette until the stockinette section measures 3”, measuring at the beginning of the round. Now decrease as follows:

Decrease round 1: *k6 k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 2: knit.

Decrease round 3: *k5 k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 4: knit.

Decrease round 5 *k4 k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 6: knit.

Decrease round 7: *k3 k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 8: *k2 k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 9: *k1 k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 10: *k2tog* to end of round.

You should have 7 stitches left. Cut the yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread the long tail onto a needle, and slip the 7 remaining stitches onto the thread. Pull tight and sew over the little hole at the top a few times.

Finishing

Starting from where you joined in the round, dc right round the bottom edge of the hat. Make up a 3” pompom and sew to the top of the hat. Weave in any loose ends and you're done!

Copyright Littletheorem

Asterisk Hat

A slouchy, easy-to-knit hat in two sizes. Decreases at the top form an asterisk shape. The hat pictured is in the larger size.

Yarn:  Patons UK Wool Blend DK, 1 skein = 251m (you won’t use it all!)

Needles: 4 4mm dpns or 4mm 16” circular needle and 4 4mm dpns.

Gauge:  22sts and 30 rows = 4”

Dimensions: small = 18” around, 8” high, large = 20” around, 9” high.

Extras 3 stitch markers.

Notation: 

CO = cast on

k = knit

p = purl

sl = slip

k2tog = knit 2 stitches together

ssk= slip 2 stitches knitwise then knit them together with the lefthand needle

psso = pass slipped stitch over

pm = place marker

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Double Moss Stitch Pattern:

Row 1: *k1 p1* to end of row.

Row 2: *k1 p1* to end of row.

Row 3: *p1 k1* to end of row.

Row 4: *p1 k1* to end of row.

Directions: 

Note: The directions for this pattern require you to use 4 (not 5!) dpns. The decreases at the top are worked in 6 segments, 2 on each dpn.

Cast on 102 (114) stitches, 34 (38) on each of your 3 dpns (if you’re using them).  Join in the round and place a marker for the beginning of the row if you’re using a circular needle.

Work in k2 p1 rib for 10 rows (or around 1½”). Now work in Double Moss Stitch until hat measures 6” (7”), ending on Row 3 of the Double Moss Stitch Pattern. Change to 4 dpns if you were using a circular needle, ensuring you have 34 (36) stitches on each of your 3 working needles.

Work set-up row: *p1, (k1 p1) 8 (9) times, pm, k1 (p1 k1) 8 (9) times, (you should be at the end of a needle)* to end of row.  You basically work row 4 of the Double Moss Stitch Pattern but place a marker in the middle of each dpn, i.e. after 17 (19) stitches. This divides your stitches into 6 segments for the decreases.

Now decrease as follows:

Row 1: (ssk k1 *p1 k1* to two stitches before marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk p1 *k1 p1* to two stitches before end of dpn, k2tog ) three times, 12 stitches decreased.

Row 2: (k2 *p1 k1* to one stitch before marker, k1, slip marker, k1 p1 *k1 p1* to one stitch before end of dpn, k1) three times.

Repeat these two rows 6 (7) more times, you should have 18 stitches left.

Final Row: *sl1 k1 psso* to end of row. Cut the yarn leaving a 10'' tail. Thread this through the remaining stitches and pull tight. Sew over the hole a couple of times and weave in any loose ends.