Courie In

Please not that Courie In is no longer available as a free pattern. However, it is available to purchase in an improved form with additional sizes and instructions for shorter versions and a version with three-quarter length sleeves. 

"Courie in" is a Scottish phrase meaning to "snuggle up" - and it's the perfect name for this oversized, supremely warm, wrap front cardigan. This is a real winter warmer, ideal for nestling into with a mug of cocoa on a cold day. And it's so quick to knit! This cardigan has a slightly unusual construction. Sleeves are knitted first from cuff to centre back, then both sleeves are joined with a three needle bind off. Stitches are picked up at the bottom edge from armpit to armpit and worked down to the hem to form the back. Then stitches are picked up round the front to form the garter stitch wrap front.

Here are the details:

Yarn: Cloudborn Fibers Superwash Merino Bulky in Heather Grey. 6 (7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 15) skeins = 654 (763, 981, 1090, 1308, 1526, 1635) yards

Dimensions 
To fit bust: 30-32 (34-36, 38-40, 42-44, 46-48, 50-52, 54-56)” Across back: 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27)” 
Sleeve length: 15 (16, 17, 17.5, 18.5, 18.5, 19.5)” 
Upper arm circumference: 12.5 (13, 14, 14.5, 16, 17, 17.5)” 
Length armpit to hem: 14.5 (15.5, 16.5, 17.5, 18.5, 19.5, 20.5)”

Needles: 100cm/40” 8mm/US11 circular needle, 8mm/US11 dpns if you wish to avoid using “magic loop”.

Gauge: 10sts x 17 rows = 4” in Double Moss Stitch after blocking. Note that the weight of the cardigan whilst damp will cause it to stretch out more than a small swatch will.

Extras: Crochet hook for weaving in loose ends, stitch markers.

It's available to download on Ravelry and Craftsy. 

Exciting News!

Whoop whoop! I'm this week's Cut Out and Keep Knit and Crochet Superstar. Every day this week a pattern will be released on Cut Out and Keep. You can read the interview and see the links to the patterns here. 

First pattern up, my Lomond Hat:

Cladach Hat

A cute, quick knit hat in an easy to memorise lace pattern.

Yarn: Rowan Lima, 1 skein = 109 yards/100 metres

Needles: Set of four 5mm / US 8 double pointed needles (dpns), or one 5mm/US 8 circular needle for magic loop.

Gauge: 22 stitches and 28 rows =

4” in stocking stitch using 5mm needles,

ball-band gauge: 20sts = 4” in stocking stitch with 5.5mm needles.

Dimensions: To fit an average ladies head (about 22” around).

Notation:

CO = cast on

k = knit

kb= knit into back of next stitch

p = purl

yo = bring yarn forward

k2 tog = knit next two stitches together

sk2p = slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over.

Stitch Patterns

Twisted Rib

Round 1: *kb1 p1* to end of row.

Repeat Round 1 for pattern.

Cladach Lace Chart

Knit rows 2, 4, 6 and 8.

Cladach Lace Written Pattern:

Round 1: *p2 yo k3 sk2p k3 yo* to end.

Round 2: knit

Round 3: *p2 k1 yo k2 sk2p k2 yo k1* to end.

Round 4: knit

Round 5: *p2 k2 yo k1 sk2p k1 yo k2* to end.

Round 6: knit

Round 7: *p2 k3 yo sk2p yo k3* to end.

Round 8: knit.

Directions:

CO 72 stitches over three dpns (27 stitches on first needle, 27 on second, 18 on third) or on circular needle for magic loop method. Join stitches in the round ensuring they're not twisted and if using circular needle, place marker for beginning of row.

Work in Twisted Rib Pattern for 10 rounds, then work set up round as follows.

Set up round: *p2 yo k7 yo* until end of round. You should now have 88 stitches.

Work in Cladach Lace Pattern, starting on Round 2. Work to the end of the chart/written instructions, then work chart/written instructions three more times in full.

Work in stocking stitch (i.e. knit every round) for four rounds, then decrease as follows:

Decrease round 1: *k9 k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 2: knit.

Decrease round 3: *k8 k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 4: knit.

Decrease round 5 *k7 k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 6: knit.

Decrease round 7: *k6 k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 8: knit.

Decrease round 9: *k5 k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 10: *k4 k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 11: *k3 k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 12: *k2 k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 13: *k1 k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 14: *k2tog* to end of round.

You should have 8 stitches left. Cut the yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread the long tail onto a needle, and slip the 8 remaining stitches onto the thread. Pull tight and sew over the little hole at the top a few times. Weave in the loose ends on the wrong side and you're done!

Copyright Littletheorem

Handspun Star Hat

 Unisex hat in a simple cable pattern shows off the beautiful colours in handspun yarn. This was the first time I had bought handpainted fibre to spin, and watching the colours change as I knitted this up was fascinating. The decreases at the top make a star shape and I added a few tiny star-shaped buttons as a cute detail. The buttons could be omitted (and perhaps more sober yarn used) for a manly version. I also include instructions to avoid the “scalloped” look at the edge. The hat is very stretchy, and will fit more or less any head. While the yarn in the picture is my own handspun yarn, I have suggested several commercially available alternatives.

Yarn: Handspun yarn from handpainted fibre or for example: Malabrigo merino worsted, Cascade yarns sierra, Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran. You need 120m in total.

Needles: 5 mm/US 8 dpns

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4” in stocking stitch.

Size: Stretches to fit most heads.

Extras: One 5mm / US 8 cable needle, and some buttons and embroidery thread if desired.

Notation:

CO = cast on

k = knit

p = purl

dpn = double pointed needle.

pm = place marker

slm = slip marker

ssk = slip two stitches knitwise, then knit them together with left hand needle.

K2tog = knit two stitches together

C6F = slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold to the front of your work, knit the next 3 stitches from left-hand needle, then the three stitches from the cable needle.

Cable Pattern

Round 1: *k6 p2* to end of round.

Round 2: As round 1.

Round 3: *C6F p2* to end of round.

Round 4: As round 1.

Directions

CO 120 stitches over 3 dpns and join in the round. Work in Cable Pattern until hat measures 6.5”. You might want to make it a little shorter/longer if you have a particularly small/large head. Also, if you want to avoid the scalloped look at the edge of the hat, work in k6 p2 rib for 4 rounds before starting the cable pattern. After 6.5”, ending on round 3, work decreases as follows:

Decrease set up row: k3 pm *k3 (p2 k6) twice p2 k3 pm* to last 21 stitches, k3 (p2 k6) twice p2.

It's easier to give instructions if the start of the round is the first marker, so k3 and we'll start rounds at the marker from now on .

Decrease round 1: *slm k2tog k1 (p2 k6) twice, p2 k1 ssk* to end of round (110 stitches).

Decrease round 2: *slm k2 (p2 k6) twice, p2 k2* to end of round.

Decrease round 3: *slm k2tog (p2 C6F) twice p2 ssk* to end of round (100 stitches).

Decrease round 4: *slm k1 (p2 k6) twice p2 k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 5: *slm k2tog p1 k6 p2 k6 p1 ssk* to end of round (90 stitches).

Decrease round 6: *slm k1 p1 k6 p2 k6 p1 k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 7: *slm k2tog C6F p2 C6F ssk* to end of round (80 stitches).

Decrease round 8: *slm k7 p2 k7* to end of round.

Decrease round 9: *slm k2tog k5 p2 k5 ssk* to end of round (70 stitches).

Decrease round 10: *slm k2tog k4 p2 k4 ssk* to end of round (60 stitches).

Decrease round 11: *slm k2tog k3 p2 k3 ssk* to end of round (50 stitches).

Decrease round 12: *slm k2tog k2 p2 k2 ssk* to end of round (40 stitches).

Decrease round 13: *slm k2tog k1 p2 k1 ssk* to end of round (30 stitches).

Decrease round 14: *slm k2tog p2 ssk* to end of round (20 stitches).

Decrease round 15: *slm k2tog ssk* to end of round (10 stitches).

Cut the yarn leaving a 10'' tail. Thread this through the remaining stitches and pull tight. Sew over the hole a couple of times and weave in any loose ends.

Beaded Rib Headband

Please note: this pattern is now available to download as a pdf from Craftsy for $2. It will still be freely available on this blog, but I thought people might want the opportunity to download a pdf version.

Unisex headband in an interesting textured rib pattern. The pictured headband was knitted with my handspun yarn, but I suggest a commercially available alternative. Instructions are given for two sizes: ladies' and men's. Instructions for smaller size are given first, followed by instructions for larger size in brackets. 

Yarn: Handspun Icelandic yarn OR Solitude Yarns Icelandic, 1 skein. Approx 75 (90) metres of yarn required.

Needles: 4 mm/US 6 dpns

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4” in stocking stitch.

Dimensions: Small: stretches to fit 22” head. Large: stretches to fit 24” head

Notation:

CO = cast on

k = knit

p = purl

dpn = double pointed needle.

 

Directions

Beaded Rib Pattern:

Round 1: *k3, p2* to end of round.

Round 2: *k1, p1, k1, p2* to end of round.

CO 100 (120) stitches over 3 dpns and join in the round.

Work in beaded rib pattern until headband measures 3.5 (4)”

Bind off all stitches and weave in any loose ends and you’re done!

 

Asterisk Hat

A slouchy, easy-to-knit hat in two sizes. Decreases at the top form an asterisk shape. The hat pictured is in the larger size.

Yarn:  Patons UK Wool Blend DK, 1 skein = 251m (you won’t use it all!)

Needles: 4 4mm dpns or 4mm 16” circular needle and 4 4mm dpns.

Gauge:  22sts and 30 rows = 4”

Dimensions: small = 18” around, 8” high, large = 20” around, 9” high.

Extras 3 stitch markers.

Notation: 

CO = cast on

k = knit

p = purl

sl = slip

k2tog = knit 2 stitches together

ssk= slip 2 stitches knitwise then knit them together with the lefthand needle

psso = pass slipped stitch over

pm = place marker

Add caption

Double Moss Stitch Pattern:

Row 1: *k1 p1* to end of row.

Row 2: *k1 p1* to end of row.

Row 3: *p1 k1* to end of row.

Row 4: *p1 k1* to end of row.

Directions: 

Note: The directions for this pattern require you to use 4 (not 5!) dpns. The decreases at the top are worked in 6 segments, 2 on each dpn.

Cast on 102 (114) stitches, 34 (38) on each of your 3 dpns (if you’re using them).  Join in the round and place a marker for the beginning of the row if you’re using a circular needle.

Work in k2 p1 rib for 10 rows (or around 1½”). Now work in Double Moss Stitch until hat measures 6” (7”), ending on Row 3 of the Double Moss Stitch Pattern. Change to 4 dpns if you were using a circular needle, ensuring you have 34 (36) stitches on each of your 3 working needles.

Work set-up row: *p1, (k1 p1) 8 (9) times, pm, k1 (p1 k1) 8 (9) times, (you should be at the end of a needle)* to end of row.  You basically work row 4 of the Double Moss Stitch Pattern but place a marker in the middle of each dpn, i.e. after 17 (19) stitches. This divides your stitches into 6 segments for the decreases.

Now decrease as follows:

Row 1: (ssk k1 *p1 k1* to two stitches before marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk p1 *k1 p1* to two stitches before end of dpn, k2tog ) three times, 12 stitches decreased.

Row 2: (k2 *p1 k1* to one stitch before marker, k1, slip marker, k1 p1 *k1 p1* to one stitch before end of dpn, k1) three times.

Repeat these two rows 6 (7) more times, you should have 18 stitches left.

Final Row: *sl1 k1 psso* to end of row. Cut the yarn leaving a 10'' tail. Thread this through the remaining stitches and pull tight. Sew over the hole a couple of times and weave in any loose ends. 

Superchunky Glam Headband

Please note: this pattern is now available to download as a pdf from Craftsy for $2. It will still be freely available on this blog, but I thought people might want the opportunity to download a pdf version.

A cute bow headband in a superbulky luxury yarn. This headband knits up incredibly speedily, perfect for a last minute gift. 

Yarn : Debbie Bliss Como, one 50g ball ( = 42 metres) . 

Needles : 10mm / US 15 needles.

Gauge:  10 sts = 4'' in stocking stitch.

Size: To fit an average adult head. It's 18'' around but stretches to be approx 22'' around.

Notation: 

k = knit

p = purl

CO = cast on

Directions

First make the headband:

Cast on 11 stitches. Work every row the same:

*k1 p1* to last stitch, k1.

Keep going until your headband is around 18'' long. Bind off and sew the short sides together to make a loop. 

Now make the "knot" part for the front:

Cast on 7 stitches. Again, work every row the same:

*k1 p1 * to last stitch, k1.

Keep going until the "knot" is 5'' long.

Now comes the (slightly) trick bit. Wrap the 5'' "knot" around the headband (preferably covering the headband seam) and sew its shorter ends together. 

Weave in any loose ends and you're done!

Mae Geri Scarf

Please note: this pattern is now available to download as a pdf from Craftsy for $2. It will still be freely available on this blog, but I thought people might want the opportunity to download a pdf version. 

 I knitted this scarf for my dear old mum. The name sounds very poetic and Japanese, maybe you'd guess it meant cherry blossom or something similar, something suitable for a lacy silk scarf. It means front kick. You see, my mother is in fact a third dan black belt in shotokan karate (i.e. she means business). But, like the ninja she is, she keeps this quite well hidden: a lacy scarf is just part of her disguise...
 

Yarn: Debbie Bliss Pure Silk. Two balls =250m

Needles: 4.5mm / US 7 needles

Gauge:  22 stitches = 4'' in stocking stitch with 4mm/US 6 straight needles
 
Size: One size, 6'' x 60''

Notation: 

k = knit

p = purl

CO = cast on

k2tog = knit two stitches together

yo = bring the yarn to the front of your knitting on knit rows and the back on purl rows

k2togtbl = knit two together through the back of the loops

p2tog = purl two stitches together

p2togtbl = purl two stitches together through the back of the loops

Directions:

CO 29 stitches. Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 8 rows. Now work pattern as follows:

Row 1: k6, *k2tog, yo, k5* to last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 2: k2, p3, *p2togtbl, yo, p1, yo, p2tog, p2* to last 3 stitches, p1, k2.

Row 3: k4, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, sl1, k1, psso* to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row 4: k2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.

Row 5: k4, * yo, sl1, k1, psso, k5* to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row 6: k2, p1, *p1, yo, p2tog, p2, p2togtbl, yo* to last 5 stitches, p3, k2.

Row 7: k3, *k3, yo, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, yo,* to last 5 stitches, k5.

Row 8: k2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.

Repeat these 8 rows until scarf measures 60'', or as long as desired. Knit 8 rows and bind off on wrong side. Weave in loose ends.

Ingram Scarf

Please note: this pattern is now available to download as a pdf from Craftsy for $2. It will still be freely available on this blog, but I thought people might want the opportunity to download a pdf version. 

Free mens' scarf knitting pattern - a classic scarf worked lengthwise. Knits up to be very dense so should keep you nice and cosy!

Yarn : Cygnet Truly Wool Rich 4ply , held double. 4 balls = 820 m. 

Needles :5mm / US 8  60cm circular needle

Gauge: 28 stitches = 10cm with yarn held singly, with 3.25mm/US 3 needles.
               15 stitches = 10cm with yarn held double, with 5mm/US 8 needles, in stocking stitch.

Size: One size, 15cm x 200cm

Notation: 

k = knit
p = purl

CO = cast on

Directions:

With yarn held double C0 300 stitches

Row 1: knit

Row 2: knit

Row 3: purl

Row 4: purl

Repeat the above four rows 12 times, or until scarf measures 15cm = 6'' across. Bind off and weave in loose ends.