Updates

Just a quick post to keep everyone up to date with the latest news. First, I've just made a Facebook page, which you can find here. Keep an eye on it for latest pattern and yarn news and hopefully a few giveaways will be coming up in the near future.

I've got a new shawl pattern just out: Buddleia is based on a traditional Estonian leaf lace pattern witht the addition of a floral motif. You can buy the pattern on Ravelry and in my Etsy shop.

  Next, I've got a jumper pattern in the pipeline, Lochan is a beautiful lacy sweater with a really simple construction. All the shaping's done by changing needles and the lace pattern's easy to remember. It's still being tested at the moment, in fact, if you're interested in testing the sweater in a 32, 48 or 56" bust then you should head to the Ravelry free pattern testers group and volunteer! The pattern should hopefully be available to purchase at the end of November.

And finally, fresh off the blocking board is my Eilean shawl. I'm hopefully going to get the pattern written up this week and should be looking for test knitters soon. Keep an eye on the Ravelry free pattern testers group if you're interested!

Here's a wee picture!

Handspun Star Hat

 Unisex hat in a simple cable pattern shows off the beautiful colours in handspun yarn. This was the first time I had bought handpainted fibre to spin, and watching the colours change as I knitted this up was fascinating. The decreases at the top make a star shape and I added a few tiny star-shaped buttons as a cute detail. The buttons could be omitted (and perhaps more sober yarn used) for a manly version. I also include instructions to avoid the “scalloped” look at the edge. The hat is very stretchy, and will fit more or less any head. While the yarn in the picture is my own handspun yarn, I have suggested several commercially available alternatives.

Yarn: Handspun yarn from handpainted fibre or for example: Malabrigo merino worsted, Cascade yarns sierra, Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran. You need 120m in total.

Needles: 5 mm/US 8 dpns

Gauge: 18 stitches = 4” in stocking stitch.

Size: Stretches to fit most heads.

Extras: One 5mm / US 8 cable needle, and some buttons and embroidery thread if desired.

Notation:

CO = cast on

k = knit

p = purl

dpn = double pointed needle.

pm = place marker

slm = slip marker

ssk = slip two stitches knitwise, then knit them together with left hand needle.

K2tog = knit two stitches together

C6F = slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold to the front of your work, knit the next 3 stitches from left-hand needle, then the three stitches from the cable needle.

Cable Pattern

Round 1: *k6 p2* to end of round.

Round 2: As round 1.

Round 3: *C6F p2* to end of round.

Round 4: As round 1.

Directions

CO 120 stitches over 3 dpns and join in the round. Work in Cable Pattern until hat measures 6.5”. You might want to make it a little shorter/longer if you have a particularly small/large head. Also, if you want to avoid the scalloped look at the edge of the hat, work in k6 p2 rib for 4 rounds before starting the cable pattern. After 6.5”, ending on round 3, work decreases as follows:

Decrease set up row: k3 pm *k3 (p2 k6) twice p2 k3 pm* to last 21 stitches, k3 (p2 k6) twice p2.

It's easier to give instructions if the start of the round is the first marker, so k3 and we'll start rounds at the marker from now on .

Decrease round 1: *slm k2tog k1 (p2 k6) twice, p2 k1 ssk* to end of round (110 stitches).

Decrease round 2: *slm k2 (p2 k6) twice, p2 k2* to end of round.

Decrease round 3: *slm k2tog (p2 C6F) twice p2 ssk* to end of round (100 stitches).

Decrease round 4: *slm k1 (p2 k6) twice p2 k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 5: *slm k2tog p1 k6 p2 k6 p1 ssk* to end of round (90 stitches).

Decrease round 6: *slm k1 p1 k6 p2 k6 p1 k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 7: *slm k2tog C6F p2 C6F ssk* to end of round (80 stitches).

Decrease round 8: *slm k7 p2 k7* to end of round.

Decrease round 9: *slm k2tog k5 p2 k5 ssk* to end of round (70 stitches).

Decrease round 10: *slm k2tog k4 p2 k4 ssk* to end of round (60 stitches).

Decrease round 11: *slm k2tog k3 p2 k3 ssk* to end of round (50 stitches).

Decrease round 12: *slm k2tog k2 p2 k2 ssk* to end of round (40 stitches).

Decrease round 13: *slm k2tog k1 p2 k1 ssk* to end of round (30 stitches).

Decrease round 14: *slm k2tog p2 ssk* to end of round (20 stitches).

Decrease round 15: *slm k2tog ssk* to end of round (10 stitches).

Cut the yarn leaving a 10'' tail. Thread this through the remaining stitches and pull tight. Sew over the hole a couple of times and weave in any loose ends.

Beaded Rib Headband

Please note: this pattern is now available to download as a pdf from Craftsy for $2. It will still be freely available on this blog, but I thought people might want the opportunity to download a pdf version.

Unisex headband in an interesting textured rib pattern. The pictured headband was knitted with my handspun yarn, but I suggest a commercially available alternative. Instructions are given for two sizes: ladies' and men's. Instructions for smaller size are given first, followed by instructions for larger size in brackets. 

Yarn: Handspun Icelandic yarn OR Solitude Yarns Icelandic, 1 skein. Approx 75 (90) metres of yarn required.

Needles: 4 mm/US 6 dpns

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4” in stocking stitch.

Dimensions: Small: stretches to fit 22” head. Large: stretches to fit 24” head

Notation:

CO = cast on

k = knit

p = purl

dpn = double pointed needle.

 

Directions

Beaded Rib Pattern:

Round 1: *k3, p2* to end of round.

Round 2: *k1, p1, k1, p2* to end of round.

CO 100 (120) stitches over 3 dpns and join in the round.

Work in beaded rib pattern until headband measures 3.5 (4)”

Bind off all stitches and weave in any loose ends and you’re done!

 

Beaded Rib Mitts

Unisex mitts in an interesting textured rib pattern. Instructions are given for two sizes: ladies' and men's. Instructions for smaller size are given first, followed by instructions for larger size in brackets. These mittens are knitted in one piece, in the round. The pictured mittens were knitted with my handspun yarn, but I suggest a commercially available alternative.

Yarn: Solitude Yarns Icelandic, 2 skeins. Approx 150 (200) metres of yarn required per pair.

Needles: 4 mm/US 6 dpns

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4” in stocking stitch.

Dimensions: Ladies': 6” around, 10” long, Men's: 8” around 12” long.

Extras: Three stitch markers, a needle and some scrap yarn.

Notation:

CO = cast on

k = knit

p = purl

k1fb = knit one stitch into the front of the next stitch, and one stitch into the back (one stitch increased).

k1fbf = knit one stitch into the front of the next stitch, one stitch into the back, then one more stitch into the front (two stitches increased).

pm = place marker

sl m = slip marker

Pattern:

Beaded Rib Pattern:

Round 1: *k3 p2* to end of row.

Round 2: *k1 p1 k1 p2* to end of row.

Mitt Directions (make 2):

CO 40 (55) stitches over 3 dpns and join in the round. Work in Beaded Rib pattern until mitt measures 5½” (6½)”, ending on Round 1 of pattern.

Thumb Gusset:

Next row: k1 pm k1fbf pm k1 p2, work in Beaded Rib pattern to end of row (you should be on Round 2 of the pattern).

You will continue working as before, but increasing stitches between the two markers as follows:

Row 1: k1, slm, knit to next marker, slm, k1 p2, continue in Beaded Rib to the end of the round.

Row 2: k1, slm, k1fb, knit to one stitch before next marker, k1fb, slm, k1 p2, continue in Beaded Rib to the end of the round.

Repeat these two rows until you have 13 (17) stitches between the thumb gusset markers.

Thread a needle with about 6” of scrap yarn. Next row: k1; slip the stitches between the markers onto the scrap yarn and tie it in a loop to secure the stitches; k1fb, p2, continue working in Beaded Rib pattern to the end of the round (you should be on Round 1 of the pattern).

Now continue working Beaded Rib pattern until the mitt measures 10” (12”) from CO edge. Bind off all stitches.

Thumb: Pick up the 13 (17) thumb stitches on scrap yarn. Knit all stitches and join in the round. (Tip: On the first round, I like to work a k1fb on the last stitch in the round, slip this extra stitch onto the beginning of the first needle, and knit it together with the first stitch on the next round.) Work in stocking stitch (i.e. knit every stitch) until the thumb measures 3” (4”) from the base (or as long as you want it).

Next round: *k1p1* to last stitch, k1. Now bind off all stitches.

Weave in any loose ends and you’re done!

Winter Warmers

Two new patterns out at the moment:

Snowcloud Cardigan

A soft, warm cardigan to keep you toasty when the snow starts falling. Featuring chunky cuffs and wraparound front in double moss stitch for extra cosiness. Seamless construction and aran yarn make this a quick and satisfying knit. Available to purchase from Ravelry and Etsy.

Yarn: Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran 8 (10, 11, 13, 15, 16) skeins at 91m / 100 yds per skein
Needles: One 5mm/US8 100cm circular needle, four 5mm/US 8 dpns or one 16” 5mm/US 8 circular needle. 
Gauge: 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4” in stocking stitch

Dimensions: 
To fit bust 32” (34”, 36”, 38”, 40”, 42”)
Sleeve length: 14” (14½”, 15”, 16”, 16½”, 17”)
Cuff Circumference: 10” (11”, 12”, 13”, 14”, 15”)
Upper Arm Circumference: 11½” (13”, 14”, 15”, 16½”, 17½”)
Back Width: 16” (17”, 18”, 19”, 20”, 21”)
Length Armpit to Hem: 14½” (15½”, 16½”, 17½”, 18½”, 19½”)

Buachaille Scarf

A cosy winter classic. Knitted up in chunky Bluefaced Leicester yarn for the ultimate in warmth and comfort. This is an easy knit, but lace stitches and cables keep it interesting. This design uses “fake cable” stitches – they’re much easier than using a cable needle but practically indistinguishable! Full instructions for all stitches are included in the pattern. Pattern available on Ravelry and Etsy. 

Yarn: Rowan Purelife British Sheep Breeds Chunky (Bluefaced Leicester) 3 skeins = 330m in total.
Needles: 6.5 mm / US 10 ½ 
Gauge: 12 stitches = 4” in stocking stitch
Dimensions: 8” x 70”

Kimberley Mitts

Knitted these up as a quick Christmas present for my friend Kimberley. Ideal stocking filler knit, very fast and easy to make. The pattern uses fake cable stitches, much easier than using a cable needle but practically indistinguishable.

Yarn:  Rowan Pure Wool Aran

Needles:  4 5mm/US 8 dpns

Gauge: 17 stitches = 4” in stocking stitch.

Dimensions: 6” around, 6½” long (they fit an average ladies hand)

Extras: Three stitch markers, a needle and some scrap yarn. 

Notation: 

CO = cast on

k = knit

p = purl

p1fb = purl one stitch into the front of the next stitch, and one stitch into the back (one stitch increased).

p2tog = purl two stitches together

sl = slip with yarn held back

RT = right twist = knit two stitches together without slipping stitches off the left

needle, knit into first stitch again, then slip both stitches off left hand needle

Youtube video for right twist here.

LT = left twist = knit into the back of the second stitch on left hand needle without slipping it

off the needle. Knit into the first stitch on the needle then slip both stitches off the needle.

Youtube video for left twist here.

Pattern:

Kim Cable Pattern Chart:

Kim Cable Pattern written instructions:

Row 1: p2 k2 p2 k1 p2 k3 p2 k1 p2 k2

Row 2: p2 RT p2 sl1 p2 RT k1 p2 sl1 p2 RT

Row 3: as Row 1

Row 4: p2 RT p2 sl1 p2 k1 LT p2 sl1 p2 RT

Fisherman’s Rib Pattern:

Row 1: *p2 k1* to end of row

Row 2: *p2 sl1* to end of row

Directions: 

Note: Yarn should be held to the back of your knitting for every slipped stitch.

Left Mitt:

CO 33 stitches over 3 dpns and join in the round. Work in k2 p1 rib for 6 rows. Next row: k2, p1fb *k2 p1* to end of row.

Now work first row of Kim Cable Pattern, place a marker, and work in fisherman’s rib to the end of the row.

Continue working Kim Cable Pattern on the first 19 stitches, and Fisherman’s rib pattern on the remaining 15 stitches. Work 2 repeats of Kim Cable Pattern, then Row 1 once more (i.e. work 9 rows).

Thumb Gusset: p1fb twice, placing a stitch marker between the stitch you purl into the front and the stitch you purl into the back both times. You should have a row starting purl, marker, purl, purl, marker, purl. Now work row 2 of Kim Cable pattern, starting on the third stitch (i.e. starting with the first RT), then work in Fisherman’s Rib to the end of the row. You will continue working as before, but increasing stitches between the two new markers as follows:

Row 1: p1; purl stitches between markers; work in Kim Cable pattern starting on the second stitch (i.e. p1 at the start of the row rather than p2) to next marker; work in Fisherman’s Rib to end of row.

Row 2: p1; slip marker, p1fb, purl to one stitch before next marker, p1fb, slip marker; work in Kim Cable pattern starting on the second stitch to next marker; work in Fisherman’s Rib to end of row.

Repeat these two rows until you have 10 purl stitches between the thumb gusset markers, then work the first row once more. You should just have finished Row 3 of Kim Cable Pattern.

Thread a needle with about 6” of scrap yarn. Next row: p1; slip the 10 stitches between the markers onto the scrap yarn and tie it in a loop to secure the stitches; now continue working Row 4 of Kim Cable Pattern, starting on the second stitch (i.e. p1, RT,…) until marker, work in Fisherman’s rib to the end of the row.

Now continue working Kim Cable Pattern on the first 19 stitches, and Fisherman’s rib pattern on the remaining 15 stitches. Keep going until the mitt measures about 6” from CO edge, ending with Row 1 or Row 3 of Kim Cable Pattern.

Next row: k2, p2 tog, *k2 p1* to end of row. Continue working in k2 p1 rib for 3 more rows. Bind off all stitches.

Thumb: Pick up the 10 thumb stitches on scrap yarn. Purl all stitches and join in the round. (Tip: On the first round, I like to work a p1fb on the last stitch in the round, slip this extra stitch onto the beginning of the first needle, and purl it together with the first stitch on the next round.) Purl every stitch for 4 rows more. Now work k1 p1 rib for 2 rounds. Bind off all stitches.

Right Mitt:

Work as for Left Mitt up to Thumb Gusset, you should just have finished Row 1 of Kim Cable Pattern.

Next Row: work Row 2 of Kim Cable Pattern; slip marker, p1fb twice, placing a stitch marker between the stitch you purl into the front and the stitch you purl into the back both times. After the first marker you should have: purl, marker, purl, purl, marker, purl.  Now continue in Fisherman’s rib pattern, starting on the third stitch (i.e. sl1, *p2 sl1* to end of row).

You will continue working as before, but increasing stitches between the two new markers as follows:

Row 1: Work in Kim Cable pattern up to the first marker; p1, purl stitches between thumb gusset markers, p1, k1; work in Fisherman’s Rib to end of row.

Row 2: Work in Kim Cable pattern up to the first marker; p1, slip marker, p1fb, purl to stitch before next marker, p1fb, slip marker, p1, sl1; work in Fisherman’s Rib to end of row.

Repeat these two rows until you have 10 purl stitches between the thumb gusset markers, then work the first row once more. You should just have finished Row 3 of Kim Cable Pattern.

Thread a needle with about 6” of scrap yarn. Next row: work Row 4 of Kim Cable Pattern; p1, slip stitches between thumb gusset markers onto scrap yarn, p1, sl1; work in Fisherman’s rib to the end of the row.

Now continue working Kim Cable Pattern on the first 19 stitches, and Fisherman’s rib pattern on the remaining 15 stitches. Keep going until the mitt measures about 6” from CO edge, ending with Row 1 or Row 3 of Kim Cable Pattern.

Next row: k2, p2 tog, *k2 p1* to end of row. Continue working in k2 p1 rib for 3 more rows. Bind off all stitches.

Knit the thumb as in left mitt.

Weave in any loose ends and you’re done!

Twisted Reversible Mitts

I knitted this up to match my Twisted Reversible Hat. The main difference is that the outside on this version matches the inside of the hat (if that makes sense). I reckoned I preferred the inside of the hat after all…

Yarn: Rowan Tapestry, one ball (=120m)

Needles: Four 4mm/US 6 dpns

Gauge:  22 stitches =4'' with 4mm/US6 needles in stocking stitch.

Dimensions:  To fit an average ladies’ hand.

Extras: Two stitch markers, a needle and some scrap yarn.

Notation: 

CO = cast on

k = knit

p = purl

k1fb = knit once into the front of the next stitch and once into the back (one stitch increased).

k2tog = knit two stitches together.

Pattern:

Spiral Pattern:

Just keep working *k2 p2*!! The number of stitches in a row isn't divisible by four, so you won't end every row with "p2", but just keep going and you'll get the lovely textured spiral pattern shown.

Mitt Directions (make 2)

CO 40 stitches over 3 dpns and join in the round. Work in k2 p2 rib for 8 rows. Next row, k1fb (so there are now 41 stitches in the row) p2, now work in Spiral Pattern (i.e. just keep working *k2 p2*) until the mitt measures 2½” from cast on edge, ending on a row that finishes p2.

Thumb Gusset: At the start of this row, you should be about to work two knit stitches; instead work 2 k1fb stitches, placing markers between the stitch you knit into the front and the stitch you knit into the back. You should have one knit stitch, then a marker, then two knit stitches, then a marker, then a knit stitch. Finish the row as usual, working p2 k2 p2 etc. Now work increases as follows:

Row 1. Knit the stitches between the stitch markers, and continue in Spiral Pattern for all the other stitches (after the markers, just carry on where you left off the Spiral Pattern).

Row 2. K1fb for the stitch after the first marker and the stitch before the second marker. Knit all other stitches between the markers, and continue in Spiral Pattern for all the stitches outside the markers. Two stitches increased.

Repeat the two increase rows until you have 14 stitches between the markers, the work Row 1 once more.

Thread about 6” of scrap yarn onto a needle. When you get to the first marker on the next round, slip all the stitches between the markers onto the needle and onto the scrap yarn. Tie the yarn in a loop so the stitches are secured.

Now continue working in Spiral Pattern until your mitt measures 5” from the cast on edge. Next row: k2tog, k1, p2, *k2 p2* to end of row. Continue working in k2 p2 rib for 3 more rows. Bind off all stitches.

Thumb: Pick up the 14 thumb stitches and remove the scrap yarn. Knit all stitches and join in the round. (Tip: On the first round, I like to work a k1fb on the last stitch in the round, slip this extra stitch onto the beginning of the first needle, and knit it together with the first stitch on the next round.) Knit every stitch for 5 rows more. Now work k1 p1 rib for 2 rounds. Bind off all stitches.

Weave in all the loose ends and you’re done!