Summer Travels Part 1 - Abriachan

Our Summer holiday plan is almost always the same - pack up the car for biking, hiking, camping (and of course knitting!) and go where the wind takes us! 

This year was no different - but it inspired a series of five knitting patterns that I'll hopefully be releasing between now and Christmas. The first is a cowl inspired by the colours of the Scottish hillsides:

This cowl is named for Abriachan - a tiny village up in the hills beside Loch Ness. It's always busy by the side of the loch, as it's such an iconic part of Scotland. But once you're up in the hills by its banks, there's a much more remote feel. Abriachan is also home to some lovely (if challenging!) mountain biking trails. I'm fairly sure they aren't well used, the forest and moor seem to be reclaiming them, which adds to the remote feel. There are lots overgrown patches and fallen trees to manoeuvre over, but the scenery is delightful. The colours of the open country are spectacular, with gorgeous patches of delicate red grass - the pictures really don't do it justice. And then there's the deep greens of the forest, really quite dark in places, with red and white mushrooms almost glowing - as well as soft heathery pinks and purples everywhere you look on the hillside. And the teals in the pattern do remind me a little of the shade of my beloved mountain bike...

The cowl pattern uses an absolutely gorgeous yarn – Malabrigo Rastita. The delicate “watercolour” variegated colourway totally reflects the natural beauty of the north of Scotland with jewel tone greens, subtle greys and heathery purples and pinks.

When designing this, I was aware that variegated yarns look lovely in the skein, but don't always look great knitted up. This cowl has slipped stitches, and gathered strands of yarn running across it to really showcase the different colours. A perfect knitting pattern for colourful, variegated yarns!

Available now on 

Ravelry 

Etsy 

Craftsy

20% discount on Ravelry with coupon code SUMMERTRAVELS1 until end of December 2017

Here's the details:

Yarn: Malabrigo Rastita
Colourway “Lotus” (100% Merino Wool, 283m (309yds) per 100g)
One 100g skein = 283m/309yds


Dimensions: 20cm/8” deep, 92cm/36” around.


Needles: 4.5mm/US 7 circular needle either 40”/100cm for magic loop or 30”/80cm or shorter circular needle if you do not wish to use magic loop.

Gauge: 20 sts x 32 rows = 4" in 2x1 twisted slip stitch rib (repeat rounds 1 & 2 of pattern) after blocking.


Extras: Tapestry needle for weaving in loose ends, stitch marker for end of round.

Buchanan Street Sweater

Released a new pattern today! Buchanan Street Sweater is a classic wardrobe staple. It's a flattering longer length with some little tricks for a perfect fit. For example, there are more stitches at the front than the back (I don't know why more patterns don't do this!) and there is extensive guidance on how to change the fit of the shoulders, sleeves and where the waist sits. I really love an "almost plain" sweater, and this one totally fits the bill for me. The pretty stitch detail at the shoulders adds just enough interest without it being overly fussy. 

Here's some pictures!

It's available to download on Ravelry, Etsy and Craftsy.

Islay Hat

 

A simple unisex hat in a stylish textured stitch pattern. Includes directions for two sizes.

Yarn: Shilasdair Luxury dk 35 (45)g from a 100g skein.

Needles: Set of four 4mm / US 6 double pointed needles (dpns), or one 4mm/US 6 circular needle for magic loop.

Gauge: 18 stitches and 26 rows = 4” in Twisted Moss Stitch.

Dimensions: 18 (21.5)” around. Stretches to fit the average ladies (mens) head.

Notation:

CO = cast on

k = knit

p = purl

k1b= knit 1 into back of next stitch

k2tog = knit next two stitches together

k1bw = knit one into the stitch directly below the next stitch on the needle.

dpn = double pointed needle

Techniques

k1bw

Knit into the stitch below by inserting needle as shown:

 

Stitch Patterns

Twisted Rib

Round 1: *k1b, p1* to end of row.

Repeat round 1 for pattern.

Twisted Moss Stitch

Round 1: purl.

Round 2: *k1bw, k1* to end of round.

Round 3: purl.

Round 4: *k1, k1bw* to end of round.

Repeat these four rows for pattern.

Directions:

CO 80 (96) stitches over three dpns or on circular needle for magic loop method. Join stitches in the round ensuring they're not twisted and if using circular needle, place marker for beginning of round.

Work in Twisted Rib Pattern for 8 (10) rounds, then knit one round.

Work in Twisted Moss Stitch until hat measures approximately 6½” (7½”), finishing with Round 3 of pattern

For smaller size, follow instructions for decreases immediately below. For larger size, follow instructions below that, headed "Decreases for Larger Size".

Decreases for Smaller Size

Decrease round 1: *(k1, k1bw) four times, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 2: *p8, k1* to end of round

Decrease round 3: *(k1bw, k1) three times, k1bw k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 4: *p7, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 5: *(k1, k1bw) three times, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 6: *p6, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 7: *(k1bw, k1) twice, k1bw k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 8: *p5, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 9: *(k1, k1bw) twice, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 10: *p4, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 11: *k1bw, k1, k1bw, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 12: *p3, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 13: *k1, k1bw, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 14: *p2 k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 15: *k1bw, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 16: *k2tog* to end of round.

Decreases for Larger Size

Decrease round 1: * (k1, k1bw) five times, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 2: *p10, k1* to end of round

Decrease round 3: *(k1bw, k1) four times, k1bw k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 4: *p9, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 5: *(k1, k1bw) four times, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 6: *p8, k1* to end of round

Decrease round 7: *(k1bw, k1) three times, k1bw k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 8: *p7, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 9: *(k1, k1bw) three times, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 10: *p6, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 11: *(k1bw, k1) twice, k1bw k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 12: *p5, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 13: *(k1, k1bw) twice, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 14: *p4, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 15: *k1bw, k1, k1bw, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 16: *p3, k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 17: *k1, k1bw, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 18: *p2 k1* to end of round.

Decrease round 19: *k1bw, k2tog* to end of round.

Decrease round 20: *k2tog* to end of round.

You should have 8 stitches left. Cut the yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread the long tail onto a needle, and slip the remaining stitches onto the thread. Pull tight and sew over the little hole at the top a few times. Weave in the loose ends on the wrong side and you're done!

Copyright Littletheorem: Do not reproduce in full or in part without the author's written permission.

 

Figure 8 Wristwarmers

Please note: this pattern is now available to download as a pdf from Craftsy for $2. It will still be freely available on this blog, but I thought people might want the opportunity to download a pdf version.

Supercute ladies mitts in an amazingly lovely yarn!

 

Yarn : K1 Yarns Selkie, 30% Cashmere, 70% Superwash Merino. Less than one 50g ball (= 217m). 

Needles : One pair 3 3/4 mm (US 5) and two cable needles.

Gauge: 26 stitches = 10cm in stocking stitch.

Size: One size fits all ladies!

Notation: 

k = knit
p = purl

CO = cast on

k2tog = knit two stitches together

k2tog tbl knit two stitches together through the back of the loops

k1fb = knit into the front of the next stitch without slipping it off the left needle, then knit into the back

sl = slip

wyif = with yarn in front

RT = right twist = k2tog without slipping stitches off the left

needle, knit into first stitch again, then slip both stitches off left hand needle

CN = cable needle

X5 = slip first stitch onto CN and hold at the front of your knitting, the slip the next three stitches onto a second CN and hold at the back. Knit the next stitch, then the three from the second CN, then knit the stitch from the first CN.

Directions

Fisherman's Rib

Row 1: p1 *k1 p1* to end

Row 2: k1 * sl 1 wyif k1* to end

Cable Pattern:

Row 1: p2 k2 sl1 k2 p1 k1 p1 k1 p1 k2 sl1 k2 p2

Row 2: RT p2 k1 p2 k2 p1 k2 p2 k1 p2 RT

Row 3: as row 1

Row 4:  k2 p2 k1 p2 k2 p1 k2 p2 k1 p2 k2

Row 5: as row 1

Row 6: : RT p2 k1 p2 X5 p2 k1 p2 RT

Row 7: as row 1

Row 8: as row 4

Left Mitt

CO 37. Work Fisherman's Rib pattern for 11 rows.

Next row ( = wrong side) : k2 sl1 wyif k1fb *sl 1 wyif k2* four times, work 1st row of cable pattern, k2

Now work as follows:
Right side rows:  p2, work next row of cable pattern *p2 k1* five times, p2
Wrong side rows:  k2 *sl1 wyif k2* five times, work next row of cable pattern, k2

On row 5 of the second repetition of the cable pattern and row 4 of the third repetition of the cable pattern k1fb instead of k1 on the first and last stitches of the row. After this there should be 42 stitches. Work the extra stitches in reverse stocking stitch (i.e. knit on wrong side, purl on right side).


Repeat the cable pattern five times, then work rows 1 to 7 once more.


Now work in Fisherman's Rib for 9 rows, ending on a right side row. Bind off on wrong side.

Right Mitt

CO 37. Work Fisherman's Rib pattern for 11 rows.

Next row ( = wrong side) :   k2, work 1st row of cable pattern, *k2 sl1 wyif * four times, k1fb sl 1 wyif k2

Now work as follows:
Right side rows:  p2, *k1 p2* five times, work next row of cable pattern,  p2
Wrong side rows: k2 , work next row of cable pattern, *k2 sl1 wyif * five times, k2

On row 5 of the second repetition of the cable pattern and row 4 of the third repetition of the cable pattern k1fb instead of k1 on the first and last stitches of the row. After this there should be 42 stitches. Work the extra stitches in reverse stocking stitch (i.e. knit on wrong side, purl on right side.)


Repeat the cable pattern five times, then work rows 1 to 6 once more. Then work row 7, but with a k1fb instead of the first knit stitch.


Now work in Fisherman's Rib for 9 rows, ending on a right side row. Bind off on wrong side.

Thumbs (Make Two!)

CO 14 .
Row 1: p2 *k1 p2* to end
Row 2: k2 *sl1 wyif k2* to end
repeat these two rows until thumb measures 4cm (or longer if you have long thumbs, mine are a little stubby...)

Continue working in this pattern, but decrease two stitches on every wrong side row by working k2tog tbl at the start, and k2tog at the end of each wrong side row. Also ensure the edge stitch is always worked in reverse stocking stitch (i.e. purl the first and last stitches of the row even if the pattern says knit). Keep going until you have two stitches left, then bind off and weave in loose ends.

Sew up along the straight 4cm of the thumbs, then sew the slanted decrease edge of the thumb onto the mitts as you sew the mitts' side seams. See diagram:

 

 Weave in loose ends and you're finished!